THURSDAY 30 JUNE

Day 13: Browning - Chester


Distance: 105.0 miles


Having paid an extortionate sum for the motel we felt obliged to demolish the morning's continental breakfast buffet. Tropicana, chocolate milk, cereal packs, danishes, yoghurts, breakfast bagels, breakfast burritos - nothing survived the carnage that ensued.


Retired to our room feeling decidedly bloated - we felt it was time to quit when we almost wretched up the breakfast burritos we had just stuffed down. I'm hoping we got somewhere near our value for money.


Set off a bit late because we took advantage of the 11am check out time but we were swept onwards by the prevailing westerly winds to Cut Bank - hopefully these conditions were representative of how it would be the whole way across the plains of Montana and North Dakota.


Having coasted with a tailwind for most of the day, awful side winds almost blew us into the road just after Cut Bank but we soon turned East again and coasted the rest of the way to Chester.


Camped in the city park in Chester for free.

WEDNESDAY 29 JUNE

Day 12: West Glacier - Browning

Distance: 71.8 miles

Got up and cleaned the bikes before heading off past Glacier National Park.

The climb up to Marias Pass was long but the gradient was pleasant. At the top we met a Korean family who had their pictures taken with us and Pete and his wife who gave us some mosquito spray for use once we were out of the mountains.

Great feeling getting to the top of Marias, the last big ascent until Maine. Even better as it was mostly downhill on average for the next several hundred miles to the Mississippi.

It started raining as we began the descent, lightly at first, before becoming torrential. The wind picked up into a harsh crosswind that drove the rain almost horizontally into our faces and bodies. The downhills were fast and dangerous given the driving the rain and small streams that began to form on the road surface.

To add to the misery of the rain Dave was chased a hundred or so metres down the road by an angry black dog.

By the time we reached Browning we were drenched and Dave was almost hypothermic. He had chosen not to don his waterproof gear for the descent and had taken a beating from the cold rain and relentless crosswinds. As a result, we booked ourselves into an overpriced motel ($123 a night!) and cashed in on some free hot cocoa. It was nice to be out of the cold and rain.

We wondered into Browning for food - probably one of the most run down areas we had experienced so far. A number of people had recommended we didn't stay there. It wasn't as bad as they made out but it wasn't particularly inspiring. (Browning is on the Blackfeet Indian Reservation - people's prejudice towards Native Americans had been clearly evident so far in Montana - sadly we experienced a lot of the stereotypes they had talked about that night).

TUESDAY 28 JUNE

Day 11: Whitefish - West Glacier


Distance: 50.7 miles


Had a lie in to take advantage of the 11am check out time before packing up.


Cycled to Columbia Falls and stayed on the 468 too far. Missed the turning onto another minor road and ended up on gravel roads in the middle of nowhere - great scenery though - saw parts of Glacier National Park we wouldn't have seen otherwise.


Rerouted to West Glacier, adding 22 miles to the day and confirmed that the Going-to-the-Sun road was closed. It was disappointing not to be able to cycle along the Going-to-the-Sun road but also cut out 100 miles and an ascent to over 6,000 feet. We were in two minds as to whether this was a blessing in disguise given the beating we took in the Rockies.


Arrived in a very well kept campsite with all the mod cons - free showers, wifi and a TV room. Got an early night for the 5,216 foot ascent up Marias Pass tomorrow.

REST DAY 2

Rest Day 2: Whitefish


After a well deserved lie in Dave shot into town to pick up a new front pannier rack from the local bike shop. Given the lack of panniers for sale in any of the three bike shops in Sandpoint the owner had a great selection of kit.


In the dim light of day the motel room looked like a scene from a cheap horror flick so we vacated post haste and spent the day doing laundry and blogging in Subway and Starbucks.


On our travels through Eastern Washington and Idaho we have been hearing reports from a number of people that the Road to the Sun in Glacier National Park is still closed due to heavy snowfall that hasn't melted yet. Provisional estimates for opening are as late as mid July.

Given this predicament we looked over the ACA maps to check the Marias Alternative and enquired further into the state of the roads - unfortunately, it doesn't look like we are going to be able to make it up the well known and reportedly beautiful Road to the Sun.


Before bed we worked out how long we would have left at the end of the trip on a makeshift Excel spreadsheet. Given the likely shorter detour over Marias Pass, our decision to take the SS Badger across Lake Michigan rather than skirting all the way round and our detour up to Montreal our route had changed considerably since its inception. We had also erred on the side of caution - overestimating distance, underestimating the distance we would cover each day and leaving several days at the end as a precaution.


At 70 miles per day we would have 16 rest days to take advantage of, at 80 mpd 22 and 90 mpd 29. Given the flat terrain in Montana and North Dakota 90 mpd could be far from unreasonable.

SUNDAY 26 JUNE

Day 10: Rexford - Whitefish


Distance: 78.7 miles

Woke up to a stunning view out over Lake Koocanusa and had a wonderfully bland breakfast of plain spaghetti and Ramen noodles. Packed up and smashed out 25 miles to Eureka over undulating terrain. Stopped off at Subway for lunch.



Spotted our first black bear running over the road behind us as we stopped for a water break. Dave shouted out and we both turned to see it shoot across from one side of the road and into the trees on the other. I think it might have smelt our peanut butter and chocolate protein bars.


We were chased by two friendly dogs down the road. Despite our pleas to go home they wouldn't and we continued with them in tow for about half a mile.


Roads on route to Whitefish were horrendous. Entire sections of tarmac had disintegrated leaving a dangerous jigsaw of potholes. In parts, 3 inch deep, several metre square sections of road, were missing. Perilous for cars, let alone bikes.


Arrived in Whitefish and shopped around for a cheap motel. Ended up paying for an absolute dive. I would say cheap and cheerful but in reality it was absolutely rotten. $58 for a double queen. It was still better than camping though. (Cheap Sleep was around $65 and a seemed a lot nicer if you're planning a motel stay in Whitefish).


Did a bit of shopping and got denied alcohol because a British passport isn't a valid form of ID. Only a third of Americans actually own a passport. Guess there's a 60% chance the guy at the counter didn't even know what the little red book I handed him was.

SATURDAY 25 JUNE

Day 9: Troy - Rexford


Distance: 68.9 miles

Woke up and had a bag of dry cereal between us before heading off down the road through Troy. Stopped at a lay by with a sign for Kootenai Falls and swinging bridge. Walked down and took some pictures.


Cycled on to Libby where we stopped for lunch at a Subway.


Followed the road around Lake Koocanusa - very scenic but some rolling hills made for a tiring day.


On the way around the Lake we started listening to some teach yourself Spanish CDs we had bought along for the trip. A good way to kill the 6-10 hours a day we were spending on the bikes.


At Libby Dam a car pulled over to warn us of a black bear and cubs they had seen by the side of the road in the direction we were heading, a potentially dangerous combination. We didn't see them but kept our eyes peeled staring into the greenery at the side of the road.


Not the best of days - a lot of rolling ups and downs had taken their toll by the time we had finished for the day. Dave was almost catatonic when we were chatting to the lady who ran the campground. However, we had ended up in a picturesque campsite at the edge of Lake Koocanusa.


Sunset over the lake was stunning as we set up camp and cooked our daily pasta load.