Distance: 73.9 miles (up and down some serious hills)
Woke to the sound of the pitter patter of rain on our tents and had an enjoyable time packing up camp for the first time in the wet. The view out over the mountains made up for it and we were soon loaded up and ready to go.
We headed down to pick up some water from the toilets at the scenic viewpoint we had camped near the night before only to find a simple drop and no sink. Fortunately, while discussing our predicament (we would have to cycle a mile or two back down the mountain to the nearest campsite), we were overheard by a passing visitor. He kindly showed us to his truck where he opened a cooler full of ice cold water bottles he hadn't used on his trip. Literally a life saver.
It rained all day. All the way up the 30+ miles to the summit of the Rainy (adeptly named) and Washington passes. It certainly was an experience. Several hours of gradual climbs in full waterproof gear. At some points the rain had begun to form rivers down the road.
At around 5,000 feet the rain tapered off and snow began to appear at the side of the road, at points over a metre high on both sides, and the temperature began to drop significantly.
The final push up to the summit was breathtaking, in more than one way, leaving us in a state of euphoria when we finally reached the green sign indicating the peak of the Pass.
We stopped to change into some warmer clothes for the descent (ended up wearing socks over my completely drenched cycling gloves) and descended at speeds up to 41mph for 35 miles down to Mazama.
We arrived in Twisp at 9pm to find our target camp site was under maintenance. It had been a long day so we flagged down a passing car to ask for directions to a possible alternative. It was occupied by a few high school kids, including Farley, who offered to pick up his truck and take us to the local park where we found solace on a patch of grass behind the local swimming pool where we set up camp. Special thanks to Farley for going so far out of his way to help us find a place to stay.
Our first morning of camping brought the harsh realities of the trip to life. Sleeping in a tent was not only sweaty and uncomfortable but we also had to deal with waking up hungry, needing the toilet in the middle of the night and hayfever so bad I looked like a zombie out of 28 days later. However, we soon shrugged this off, packed up camp for the first time, and continued towards the ever-towering Rockies.
The scenery was amazing. Thick evergreen forests lined both sides of the road and the snow capped Rockies were a constant reminder of the hard days of ascent we had ahead. We came across some lung-bursting climbs but we anticipate these are just the tip of the proverbial iceberg.
We decided against pushing on over Washington Pass that night and having passed all of the campsites before the climb decided to try and find a place to camp on the side of the road. We ended up pushing through some trees next to a scenic viewpoint to find a small clearing completely secluded from the road and with one side facing out across the mountains. It really was spectacular.
Loaded all the kit into panniers and attached to the bikes. Ate breakfast and checked out of the Anaco Inn.
Cycled from Anacortes town centre over to the start point at the San Juan ferry terminal. Took the archetypal back wheel in the Pacific photo and started off on our journey. Stopped for lunch on the way back and met Dutch, the eccentric patriotic ex militant, who told us tales of feeding drug dealers to the local crabs and how 'he doesn't put up with any shit on his island'.
Our journey took us to the foothills of the Rockies to a small town called Rockport and a picturesque campsite on the shores of the River Skagit. We met Mark from Marysville, a local electrician and amateur fisherman. He showed us his boat and kindly set us up with some Powerade and equipment we had forgotten.
Had fun setting up camp for the first time. Dave on the tents and me on the cooking. All in all a wonderful start to the trip.
Day of prep in Anacortes. Early start for continental breakfast buffet. Assembled the bikes. Both in good condition apart from some minor adjustments to brakes and front derailleur.
Headed over to Skagit Cycle to pick up a few bits and bobs for the bikes. Had a good chat with mechanic Andy about the local area and our route over the Cascades and out of Washington.
Went down to the offices of the Anacortes American to see if they wanted to cover our story. Took a picture of us and said they would look at posting it to their blog. Would be cool if they did, first local news story.
Did a bit of sightseeing in Anacortes. First taste of Taco Bell. Burritos with chips - surprised when they handed us a bag of Doritos each. Went down to the local marina before heading back to the motel. Saw some nice yachts.
Flight was great. Extra portions from the air hostesses were appreciated. No hold ups at customs. Shuttle up to Anacortes, a scenic coastal town in Northwest Washington. Met a few characters, clueless Mario at the airport, Kevin the jovial bus driver and enthusiastic fans and fellow passengers Cherie and Donna on the shuttle from Tacoma Airport.
Dropped our kit in the rooms and went off to explore the local area. Got as far as the first block before we spotted the Anchor Inn. Had to test the Love Actually 'British guy in America' theory... Back in bed asleep by ten.